THIS IS HOW MUCH RETINOL YOU SHOULD BE USING—AND WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU OVERDO IT
Medically reviewed by Lucy Chen, MD
Considered by many to be the zenith of skincare, retinol has a plethora of benefits. It increases skin cell production, unclogs pores, exfoliates, and boosts collagen production to fight the formation and appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. All those perks make it a magical multitasker. Plus, it's available in strengths ranging from prescription to over-the-counter and formats like serums and moisturizers.
With that kind of popularity, one has to wonder—can you ever have too much of a good thing? We asked board-certified dermatologists Rebecca Marcus, MD, and Marisa Garshick, MD, if there is such a thing as too much retinol. Read on for what they told us.
MEET THE EXPERTS:
- Rebecca Marcus, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Dallas. She is the founder of Maei MD.
- Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell-New York Presbyterian Medical Center.
What Is Retinol?
"Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is known to help with regulating skin cell turnover and boosting collagen production," explains Garshick. "In doing so, it helps to improve the appearance of skin tone and texture, helping to reduce discoloration and improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can also be used to help reduce breakouts and blemishes." Marcus adds that retinol is part of the retinoid family, a class of medication frequently prescribed for treating acne.
How Much and How Often Should You Use Retinol?
While retinol can be used every night, when first starting out, Garshick advises using it just a few times per week to ensure tolerability. "It is typically best to start with a low concentration, making sure to apply only a pea-sized amount to the whole face and slowly increase the frequency as tolerated," she says. "Depending on your skin type, it may only take a few weeks to get used to using retinol regularly. Regardless of skin type, it is always best to start using [it] just two to three times per week and increase the frequency as tolerated."
However, for most people, the more you apply it, the more you'll see results—as long as you use it right. So Marcus has a slightly different take. "You should aim to use retinol consistently, ideally every night," she says. "The strength of the retinol used is a factor in determining whether or not one may experience side effects. My preference is consistency, and therefore I recommend a 'start low and go slow' method, in which one consistently applies low-strength retinol and increases the dose slowly as tolerated."
The best type and amount of retinol to start with depends on your skin type and concern. "For example, if you are using retinol to treat acne, you will most likely want to start with a higher dose, such as 0.1 percent, or possibly even a prescription retinoid," Marcus says. "If using retinol for cosmetic purposes, start with a very low dose, such as 0.05 percent, and after using one bottle, tube, or vial, try leveling up to the next available strength. Patience will pay off here, as tolerance [builds] over time, and going slowly will decrease the chances of inflammation and irritation." And inflammation is always bad news for the skin.
Additionally, it's important to note that retinol comes in several forms. What sets them apart is the number of chemical conversions required to reach the form of retinol that is active in the skin, retinoic acid, Marcus explains. "So, not all retinols are created equal—retinyl palmitate is weaker than retinol, which is weaker than retinaldehyde, which is weaker than tretinoin," she adds.
What Are the Side Effects of Retinol?
"Retinol use is often limited by its potential to cause side effects, which include irritation, redness, peeling, and sun sensitivity," Marcus says. "Those with sensitive skin are more likely to experience side effects, and some may not experience them at all." You may also experience extremely dry or flaky skin and a burning sensation.
How long the symptoms last depends on your skin type and the strength of the retinol you've been using. "Irritation from retinol may last a few days," says Marcus. "In general, it tends to calm down about three or four days after stopping the use of retinol."
What Can Happen If You Use Too Much Retinol?
In some cases, people may develop retinol burn, which refers to an irritant contact dermatitis that can result from using too much retinol, Garshick explains. "The skin may appear red, raw, or flaky," particularly in areas with thinner skin, such as around the mouth and eyes, she tells us.
How to Treat Retinol Burn or Damage
As soon you notice retinol burn, stop using retinol immediately—this will allow the skin barrier to recover. "Often, it can help to use products that help to support the skin barrier and protect the skin from further external irritation, such as Vaseline Healing Jelly Ointment ($4)," Garshick says. "In some cases, a topical steroid may be needed."
In addition to giving your skin a break from the retinol product, Marcus advises practicing gentle skincare. This means washing your face with a mild and fragrance-free cleanser and applying hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and an emollient barrier-boosting moisturizing cream. "Don't forget your sunscreen, as retinol always makes skin more sun sensitive, whether [it is] irritated or not," she adds.
How to Prevent Retinol Burn or Damage
Garshick has a few tips for preventing retinol burn:
- Use only a small, pea-sized amount for your entire face.
- Start out using retinol just a few times a week, increasing the frequency as tolerated.
- Protect areas of the face that might be more prone to irritation—such as the eyes, nose, and mouth—with a thicker ointment. This will "minimize buildup in the folds, which can contribute to irritation."
Another trick to avoiding irritation is sandwiching your retinol, especially if you have sensitive skin. "You may wish to apply your retinol on top of your serums and creams," Marcus says. "This decreases the absorption of the retinol—and therefore the efficacy as well—but also decreases the chance of irritation. I would rather someone use a weaker retinol consistently than a stronger retinol on a less consistent basis."
One group that should always avoid retinol is pregnant people since retinol is not safe during pregnancy.
The Final Takeaway
"Retinol (or other ingredients in the retinoid family) is an essential ingredient in skincare that should be used long-term," Marcus says. "Over time, retinol helps to maintain a healthy, plump skin texture and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by enhancing cell turnover and stimulating collagen production.
"Always be extra vigilant about using sunscreen when you are on a retinol as [they] make you more sun sensitive," Marcus continues. Since the molecule isn't stable when exposed to UV radiation, it's best to use your retinol at night. Additionally, "take care about using other exfoliating ingredients at the same time as using retinol, as over-exfoliation may increase the chance of irritation," she cautions.
Ultimately, it's important to listen to your skin while using retinol and ease into it. Remember that everyone's complexion is unique and should be treated accordingly.
2023-08-07T12:06:08Z dg43tfdfdgfd